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home | Food Safety Matters
Food Safety Matters
FOOD SAFETY MATTERS

Our take on the week's events in food safety around the world




Friday, Jul 06, 2012
Playing chicken with food poisoning
By Richard Lawley
Friday, Jul 06, 2012 05:28
Despite the best efforts of the poultry industry, raw chicken remains high-risk when it comes to food poisoning. A recently published EFSA opinion focusing on traditional poultry meat inspection highlights this problem by pointing out how ineffective it is at detecting the health hazards that are really important. EFSA picks out Campylobacter, Salmonella and bacteria carrying antibiotic resistance genes as the greatest poultry-borne threats to human health. Unfortunately, even the most detailed carcass inspection is unlikely to spot signs of any of these before the meat is released into the food chain.

Meat inspection was never designed to detect this kind of contamination. Its role has traditionally been to identify sick and diseased birds and poor quality meat, rather than to ensure food safety. That is why EFSA is recommending that meat inspection be modernised by introducing "risk-based interventions", combined with improved information sharing between farms and abattoirs, as the best way forward.

We seem to have been reading about the need for better pathogen control in the poultry industry for almost as long as I can remember; yet it remains a major issue. In fact considerable progress has been made, especially in the case of Salmonella. No doubt this is due in part to measures, notably vaccination, introduced to try and eliminate Salmonella Enteritidis from eggs, but progress has also been made in biosecurity and in Salmonella-free feed to protect flocks from infection. The result is that most recent European surveys reveal a prevalence of Salmonella in poultry carcases of well below 10%.

Sadly, the same cannot be said for Campylobacter, which is now the biggest cause of bacterial food poisoning across much of the developed world and is firmly linked with poultry meat. Survey results vary, but it's probably safe to say that any chicken carcass has about a 66% chance of being contaminated. Vaccination isn't a practical option yet, but there are other strategies, like biosecurity for preventing infection and better slaughterhouse hygiene to reduce cross-contamination, that can help. The Danish poultry industry got as far as introducing 'Campylobacter-free' certified chicken in 2002, but successes have been more limited elsewhere. How Campylobacter, which does not multiply in food and is easily killed by cooking and freezing, still manages to be such a persistent problem is something of a mystery. Until more is known about this pathogen and how to eliminate it, it looks likely to remain a concern for the foreseeable future. Do remember that next time you cook chicken on the barbecue.

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Friday, Jun 22, 2012
The dating game
By Richard Lawley
Friday, Jun 22, 2012 04:00
Last week in the UK was this year's National Food Safety Week; an event intended to remind us all how to avoid contracting food poisoning, or inflicting it on other people. Food Safety Week is a worthy enterprise, though it seemed to attract even less publicity than usual this year. Nevertheless, the Food Standards and Health Protection Agencies were presented with their annual opportunity to dish out advice to the hapless consumer.

With one eye on the summer barbecue season the HPA focused on adequate cooking of meat - ensure it's piping hot, whatever that means - and avoiding cross contamination. Their press release also highlighted research published in 2005 estimating the number of cases of foodborne illness in England and Wales each year at 1.7 million. This figure is about 20 times the number of confirmed cases picked up by the surveillance system, showing not only the degree of under-reporting, but also giving some idea of the burden of foodborne disease on a population of about 54 million.

The FSA chose to advise consumers how to use food leftovers safely, after discovering that many households are trying to save money in these uncertain times by cutting down on food waste. Throwing away less food is clearly a positive trend, and is Government policy, but it does carry with it some food safety risks, which the FSA is keen to warn people about. Part of that warning concerns 'use by' and 'best before' dates, which many people ignore, but which assume a greater significance if we are intent on eating more of the food we buy. Despite repeated attempts to educate the public, many people still don't understand what these labels mean and don't take them seriously.

Perhaps the solution is to go back to square one and come up with something better, rather than try to educate consumers. It seems to me that applying 'use by' to more or less everything perishable dilutes the food safety message. For example, 'use by' is much more critical for cooked sliced meats than for yoghurt or orange juice. I suspect that 'best before' could be applied to a lot more food products without compromising food safety. That leaves the problem of how to label the rest - the foods that carry a real risk. 'Use by' doesn't really grab the attention. How about 'safe until' instead? That would certainly make more sense to consumers, but somehow I don't see food manufacturers being too keen to have it on their labels.

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Friday, Jun 08, 2012
Lost without trace
By Richard Lawley
Friday, Jun 08, 2012 05:16
Anyone with more than a passing interest in the food industry will be well aware that the march towards globalisation of the supply chain has been inexorable over the last twenty years. Insatiable demand for what used to be seasonal foods and the constant struggle to reduce manufacturing costs has forced manufacturers and retailers to look further and further afield for food commodities and ingredients. The result is supply chains that are not only much longer than previously, but also far more complex. For example, the Food Safety Authority of Ireland conducted a study not long ago to trace the origins of each ingredient in a 'Chicken Kiev' served in a Dublin restaurant. Amazingly, they found that no less than 53 countries had made a contribution.

This kind of complexity is a big problem for the investigation of food poisoning outbreaks. Where do you start looking for the source of a foodborne pathogen and how do you trace it back to its origin? Witness last year's E. coli O104 outbreak in Germany. Initially the investigating authorities were confident that the source was most likely Spanish cucumbers and/or tomatoes. But further detective work later pinned the blame on fenugreek seeds from Egypt. Unfortunately, delays in identifying an outbreak's source can lead to additional cases of illness - sometimes even deaths - that might otherwise have been prevented.

The problem of complex supply chains is well known, but a newly published research study led by the Institute of Food Research in the UK has managed to quantify that complexity and map the networks that supply our food. The researchers used some sophisticated methodology to analyse food trade data from the UN. The maths are a bit beyond me, but the findings are clear. Supply networks are incredibly convoluted and complex, but there are a relatively small number of countries that act as processing and distribution hubs in international food trade - the Netherlands fills this role in Europe. The study's authors concluded that the global food supply network is great for speedy distribution of food, but not much use for finding out where it originated.

I think this supports the view that the food industry needs to pay much more attention to the traceability of its' products and ingredients. Simply meeting the 'one step forward, one step back' requirement of the law is no longer enough. Tougher legislation may be needed, along with industry cooperation to identify best practice. Without action, the problem can only get worse.

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Friday, May 25, 2012
Total recall
By Richard Lawley
Friday, May 25, 2012 05:20
One of the biggest decisions a food manufacturer ever has to make is whether or not to recall a product. Sometimes it is an easy decision - any link with a food poisoning outbreak has to trigger a recall - but often things are less clear. Recalls are expensive and damaging, so initiating one is not something to be taken lightly. On the other hand, food manufacturers have a moral and legal obligation to protect their customers. Understandably, regulators tend to focus on consumer protection - that's their job - but this can lead to recalls that with hindsight were probably unnecessary.

The issue was highlighted this week by the "Stericycle ExpertRECALL Index" of all the food recalls logged by the FDA in America for the first quarter of 2012. According to the Index, there were 142 recalls during the three month period, which sounds a lot, although it was apparently 19% fewer than in the previous quarter. Those recalls involved around seven million individual food units, which also sounds a lot, but is actually 90% less than in the previous quarter. The real interest for me lies not in the number of recalls, but in the reasons for them. By far the commonest cause was undeclared allergens, which accounted for 40%, followed by Listeria contamination (30%).

The high number of Listeria-related recalls can be viewed as peculiar to the USA, arising from the 'zero tolerance' policy towards Listeria. Only this week a large nationwide recall of potentially contaminated bagged salads was announced. In the EU that recall may not have been necessary, since food safety rules say that low numbers of Listeria are acceptable, provided they do not rise to dangerous levels during shelf life. Whether the American approach is better is difficult to say, but it makes life a lot more difficult for food manufacturers.

Recalls prompted by undeclared allergens are a different matter. The picture in Europe is much the same as that in the USA, with allergens accounting for a large proportion of food recalls. Are all those recalls necessary? Again, it's hard to say, but what it illustrates is that a lot of food manufacturers really haven't got their act together when it comes to allergen control. Many allergen related recalls are caused by packaging and labelling errors. That should be easily fixable because it just means always matching the product with the correct packaging. Cross contamination incidents are much less common, and adopting sound allergen control plans could prevent many of those. Food manufacturers have it within their capability to do far more to prevent allergen related recalls, which would not only benefit consumers, but would also make sound business sense.

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Friday, May 11, 2012
Food for thought, with a touch of indigestion
By Richard Lawley
Friday, May 11, 2012 06:01
In an ideal world, meat, if consumed at all, would be produced from contented animals allowed to roam freely around in a pristine environment. Sadly, the world is far from ideal, and with seven billion of us now living on it, pressure on food production grows ever greater. This dilemma appears to lie at the heart of a newly published report from the Council for Agricultural Science and Technology (CAST) in the USA.

The CAST report, titled 'The Direct Relationship Between Animal Health and Food Safety Outcomes', looks at how the health of food animals produced under different conditions can have effects on food safety at distant steps in the supply chain. For example, a subclinical infection with Salmonella might not be apparent prior to slaughter, but may have a considerable effect on contamination rates at the processing stage. The authors make some thought provoking observations and point out that 'humane' animal production systems, like organic and free-range, can actually lead to higher rates of infection with pathogens than intensive indoor systems.

Reading between the lines, the report seems to be saying that we will need to take a pragmatic approach to meat production if we are to meet the demands of our growing population. We might think that intensive production systems are bad for animal health, but some of the science says otherwise, and this has consequences for food safety. Whether you agree with that or not, it is a point worthy of discussion. So far so good, but the report also contains the following statement on the subject of antibiotics in agriculture, "The use of antibiotics in food-animal production, however, raises some concerns about antibiotic resistance in bacteria that could affect the efficacy of antibiotics in the treatment of human infections. Concern about antibiotic resistance is not equivalent to actual risk. Resistant bacteria were present long before antibiotics were discovered and found in many places without livestock exposure."

This is at odds with much of the scientific literature the authors must have consulted before reaching their conclusions. It is certainly true that antibiotic resistant bacteria have been around for a long time, but isn't that because many antibiotics are derived from compounds produced naturally by microbes in the environment? They can be seen as weapons in an arms race that has been going on for millions of years. Microorganisms compete for resources, and antibiotics provide an advantage if they kill off competitors. Equally, evolving antibiotic resistance as a defence confers a similar advantage. Introducing vast amounts of antibiotics into the environment through livestock means a shift in the balance of power, which is seldom a good thing in ecological terms. It may be true that "Concern about antibiotic resistance is not equivalent to actual risk", but the CAST report does nothing to allay that concern.

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